Different Terms Related To Fiber and Fabric:

Filament:-
1. A fiber of indefinite length, such as filament acetate, rayon, nylon, May be miles long.
2. A single strand of rayon spinning solution as it is exuded from a spinneret orifice and coagulated in an acid bath or other medium; also true of other manmade filaments.
3. The single unit which is extruded by a silkworm in spinning its cocoon. Actually the silkworm makes two filaments at the one time, and they are cemented or glued together by the sericin, or silkgum, exuded by the silkworm in the action. Filaments are then spun into yarn.

Denier: –
A weight-per--unit-length measure of any linear material. Officially, it is the number of unit weights of 0.05 grams per 450-meter length. This is numerically equal to the weight in grams of 9.000 meters of the material. Denier is a direct numbering system in which the low numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers the coarser sizes. In the U.S. the denier is used for numbering filament yarns (except glass), man-made fiber staple (but not spun yarns), and tow. In most countries outside the U.S. the denier system has been replaced by the tex system.

Yarn: –
A generic term for an assemblage of fibers or filaments, either natural or man-made, twisted together to form a continuous strand which can be used for weaving, knitting, plaiting, braiding, of the manufacture of lace, or otherwise made into a textile material.

Yarn Standards: –
These standards for the major yarns are given below. It should be noted that yarn counts or numbers are written by number and this is followed by the letter "s." The apostrophe is not necessarily used between the number and the "s."
1. A. 840 yards in one pound of a 1s cotton yarn. (Boston or New England)
B. 560 yards in one pound of a 1s worsted yarn (two-thirds the number used for
the cotton standard of 840 yards in one pound of 1s).
C. 1,600 yards in one pound of a 1s run woolen yarn (Boston or New England)
D. 300 yards in one pound of a 1s cut woolen yarn (Philadelphia system)
E. 300 yards in one pound of a 1s linen yarn.
F. 840 yards in one pound of a 1s spun silk yarn, in the single ply.
G. 4,464,528 yards in one pound of a Number One denier filament yarn: used to
figure silk and man-made filament yarns.
2. Approximate Highest Counts of Yarn Spun for the Natural Fibers: On a per pound
basis, these approximations for commercial purpose follow:
A. Cotton: 140s x 840 standards, gives 117,600 yards.
B. Cut Wool: 30s x 300 standards, gives 9.000 yards.
C. Run Wool: 10s x 1,600 standard, gives 16,000 yards.
D. Worsted: 70s x 560 standard, gives 39,200 yards.

Taslan:–
A registered trademark. A textured yarn that is different from spun yarn or continuous filament yarn in that it is made on a bulking process developed by DuPont. Its hand, loftiness, covering power, and yarn texture are such that these properties are permanent and do not require special handling or care. The method may be applied to any thermoplastic fiber.

Denim:–
This basic cotton cloth? First brought to America by Columbus almost 500 years ago as the sails on the Santa Maria? is rugged, tough, and serviceable. It is easily recognized by its traditional indigo-blue color warp and gray or molted white filling, and its left hand twill on the face. Coarse single yarns are used mostly, but today many versions are available for the fashion world. A two-up and one-down or a three-up and one-down twill may be used in the weave construction. Long considered the most popular fabric for work clothes and army uniforms, denim today has won great fashion significance in dress goods for women's and men's wear, a wide range of sportswear, and even evening wear. It is estimated last year American textile mills consumed some 1,500,000 bales of cotton to produce denim which was known centuries ago as "Serge de Nimes" from its early origins in Nimes, France.

Dobby Loom: –
A type of loom on which small, geometric figures can be woven in a regular pattern. Originally this type of loom needed a "dobby boy" who sat on the top of the loom and drew up warp threads to form a pattern. Now the weaving is done entirely by machine. This loom differs from a plain loom in that it may have up to thirty-two harnesses and a pattern chain. Is expensive weaving.

Double Knit: -
A Circular knit fabric knitted via double stitch on a double needle frame to provide a double thickness. It is the same on both sides. Today, most double knits are made of 150 denier polyester although many lighter weight versions are now being made using finer denier yarns and blends of filament and spun yarns.

Dyeing of Textiles: –
Dyeing: The process of applying color to fiber stock, yarn or fabric; there may or may not be thorough penetration of the colorant into the fibers or yarns. Major methods of dyeing follow:
Bale Dyeing: A low cost method to dye cotton cloth. The material is sent, without scouring or singeing, through a cold water bath where the sized warp yarn has affinity for the dye. With the natural wax not removed from the filling yarn the dye will not be absorbed by this filling. Imitation chambray and comparable fabrics are often dyed in this way.
Batik Dyeing: One of the oldest forms known to man; originated in Java. Portions of the fabric are coated with wax so that only the un-waxed areas will take on the dye matter. The operation may be repeated several times and several colors may be used for the rather bizarre effects. Motifs show a melage, mottled or streaked effect. Imitated in machine printing.
Beam Dyeing: The warp is dyed prior to weaving. It is wound onto a perforated beam and the dye is forced through the perforations thereby saturating the yarn with color.
Burl or Speck Dyeing: Done mostly on woolens and worsteds, colored specks and blemishes are covered by the use of special colored inks which come in many colors and shades. This is a hand operation.
Chain Dyeing: Used when yarns and cloths are low in tensile strength. Several cuts or pieces of cloth are tacked end-to-end and run through in a continuous chain in the dye liquor. Affords high production.
Cross Dyeing: Varied color effects are obtained in the one dyebath for a cloth which contains fibers with varying affinities for the dye used. For example, a blue dyestuff might give nylon 6 a dark blue shade, nylon 6, 6 a light blue shade, and have no affinity for polyester thereby leaving the polyester area unscathed or white. it is a very popular method.
Jig Dyeing: This is done in a jig, vat, beck or vessel in an open formation of the goods. The fabric goes from one roller to another through a deep dyebath until the desired shade is achieved.
Package Dyeing: Yarns are dyed while on cones, cakes, cheeses or in the conventional or standard layout or set-up.
Piece Dyeing: The dyeing of fabric in the cut, bolt or piece form it follows the weaving of the goods and provides a single color for the material, such as a blue serge, a green organdy.
Random Dyeing: Coloring only certain designated portions of yarn. There are three ways of doing this type of coloring:
Skeins may be tightly tied in two or more places and dyed at one side of the tie with one color and at the other side with another one.
Color may be printed onto the skeins which are spread out on the blanket fabric of the printing machine.
Cones or packages of yarn on hollow spindles may be arranged to form channels through which the yarn, by means of an air-operated punch, and the dyestuff are drawn through three holes by suction. The yarn in the immediate area of the punch absorbs the dye and the random effects are thereby attained.
Raw Stock Dyeing: Dyeing of fiber stock precedes spinning of the yarn. Dyeing follows the degreasing of the wool fibers and dyeing of the stock.
Resist Dyeing: Treating yarn or cloth so that in any subsequent dyeing operation the treated portions resist the dye and do not absorb it at all.
Solution Dyeing: Also called dope dyeing and spun dyeing, the pigment or color is bonded-in in the solution and is picked up as the filaments are being formed in the liquor. Cellulosic and noncellulosic fibers are dyed to perfection by this method. Colors are bright, clear, clean, and fast.
Stock Dyed: Fibers are dyed after degreasing and drying and preceding, blending, oiling, mixing, carding (combing in worsted yarn manufacturer), and spinning of the yarn. Ideal for woolen and worsted fibers since it affords an endless array of color, cast, shade, tone or hue in the fabric.
Top Dyed: Often referred to as Vigoureux Printing, it is the dyeing or printing of worsted top or sliver in a rather loose formation of combed, parallel fibers. Precedes the spinning of the yarn and affords a host of colors, cats, and shades.
Union Dyed: The coloring of two or more different textile fibers in the one dyebath to provide different colors simultaneously or dyeing the fabric in a single shade, usually the latter.
Vat Dyed: Cloth dyed by the use of vat dyes which are obtained through oxidation. Very fast in all respects. Vat dyeing may be considered to be a misnomer since fabric colored with these dyes are piece dyed in the conventional manner.
Williams Unit: An open-width dyeing machine invented by the late S.H.. Williams of GAF Corporation, New York City. The fabric passes up and down over rollers in the dyeing bath. Widely used for dyeing, washing, pretreating and aftertreating.
Yarn Dyeing: yarn which has been dyed prior to the weaving of the goods; follows spinning of the yarn. May be done in either total immersion of the yarn.

Dyes, Types of: -
Acid Dyes: Being water soluble they are applied directly with an acid, such as sulphuric acid. Bright colors do not stand up too well in colorfastness when wet-treated; fair to poor in washing, good in dry cleaning and lightfastness. Used on wool, worsted, acrylics, and nylon.
Acid-Milling Dyes: Ideal for coloring wool, worsted, acrylics, modacrylics, nylon, and spandex fibers. Also used in printing. Good in drycleaning, excellent resistance to light.
Acid-premetalized dyes: Used on wool, acrylics, and nylon, they rate excellent to fastness in drycleaning, perspiration, and washing. Much used for carpeting, suiting fabrics, and upholstery.
Alizarine Dyes: Originally natural dyestuff. They are now synthetic dyes. Used on cotton and wool, they are resistant to sunlight and washing. Considerable use for apparel fabrics.
Azoic or Naphthol dyes: Also called Ice colors, Insoluble Azos, and Ingrain Colors. Rated good to laundering and washing. Ideal for decorative fabrics, draperies, dress goods, sportswear.
Basic Dyes: The first of the many groups of synthetic dyes. Sir William Perkin discovered them in 1856. Used on cotton, paper, and wool. Provide brilliant shades but rated poor to fair to light and washfastness; color resistance is only fair.
Chrome dyes: See Mordant Dyes Below. Developed Dyes: Used on cotton and rayon and other man-made fibers; on the latter when developed from disperse dye bases. Lightfastness rated from poor to good. See Mordant Dyes below.
Direct Dyes: Also known as Application or Commercial Dyes. Applied to cellulosic fibers such as cotton and rayon. Lightfastness rated from poor to excellent, and because of solubility are not rated highly in washfastness.
Disperse Dyes: Also known as Azo or Anthraquinone Dyes, they are ideal on nylon, acrylics, modacrylics, and polyesters?either dyed or printed. These dyes have a great many applications in the industry. Colorfastness is rated poor to very good for light and washing, depending on the fiber used. Ingrain: See Azoic or Naphthol Dyes.
Mineral Colors: Actually they are not true dyes but are precipitated oxides or insoluble salts of chromium, iron, lead or manganese. Dull in appearance these colors are much used to color awnings and comparable fabrics.
Mordant Dyes: A mordant is a substance used in dyeing to apply or fix coloring matter to a fiber, yarn or fabric, especially a metallic compound such as an oxide which combines with the fiber and organic dye and forms an insoluble color compound or take in the fiber. Also known as Mordant-Acid Dyes or Chrome Dyes, they are closely related to Acid Dyes. Results are dull when compared with those from acid dyes. Exceptionally fast on wool and other animal fibers. Much used as well on carpeting, nylon, and silk.
Neutral-premetalized Acid Dyes: Much used on wool and other protein fibers, acrylics, modacrylics, and nylon and ideal for use in blends. Much used in coloring apparel. Fair to excellent to light, good to excellent in washing, excellent in drycleaning.
Oxidation Bases: One of these bases is aniline dye which is formed in the fiber by oxidation. Ideal for coloring fur, sheepskins, and pile cloths, as well as in dyeing cotton for use in a wide range of fabrics. Finds much application in printgoods.
Pigment Colors: Insoluble in water and the color has to be fixed onto the fiber by use of resinous-binders insolubilized by a curing treatment at high temperatures. Used mostly on cotton and acetate, rayon and some other man-made fibers, these dyes, generally speaking, color, by dyeing or printing, just about all types of fibers and blends. Light and medium shades of sailcloths and many types of dress goods use Pigment Colors. Good to excellent in lightfastness but may be poor in cocking or rubbing.
Reactive Dyes: They actually bond-in the colorant. Provide bright colors on cottons and can dye acrylics, nylon, silk, and wool, and blends of these fibers. Also used for printing cotton fabrics. Rated good to very good to light and washing, but fugitive to chlorine-base bleaches.
Sulphur Dyes: They do not provide bright shades to any marked degree and their fastness properties have to be developed in the chemical inertness and insolubility in water. There are now also soluble forms of these dyes on the market. Used to color heavy cottons, knitwear in medium to full shades and readily dye stock, yarn, and piecegoods. weak in sunlight except for deep shades where fastness is good. Fugitive to chlorine-base bleaches.
Vat and Vat-Soluble Dyes: These are the fastest dyes known to man; insoluble in water and made soluble by chemical reduction. They actually bond-in the colorant and are the most resistant of any types of light, drycleaning, sunlight, and washing. Has many applications on cotton, rayon, polyesters, etc. Vat dyes are used to color awnings, bed linens, decorative fabrics, outerwear, sportswear, toweling, workclothes.

Twill Weave: -
Identified by the diagonal lines in the goods. It is one of the three basic weaves, the others being plain and satin. All weaves, either simple, elaborate or complex, are derived from these three weaves. Most twills are 45 degrees in angle. Steep twills are made from angles of 63, 70, 75 degrees while reclining twills use angles of 27, 20 and 15 degrees. Right-hand twilled clothes include cassimere, cavalry twill, covert, elastique, gabardine, serge, tackle twill, tricotin, tweed, whipcord. Left-hand twills include denim, galatea, jean cloth, some drill and twill cloth, and some ticking fabrics.

Tricot: –
· A type of warp knitted fabric which has a thin texture since it is made from very fine yarn. The French verb tricoter, means "to knit." The fabric is made on one, two, or three bar frames. It is knitted flat and made on spring-beard needles and has from one to four warps or thread systems which are mounted in a stationary position. Industry Standard Machine is 28 needles to the inch or a 28 gauge (gg).
· "Stocking-net" as applied to a warp-knitted fabric irrespective of the motif ; often refers to a flat knitted cloth since it is not tubular. The meaning, however, is not to be constructed to imply a flat-machine knit fabric.
· A French serge lining fabric made on a 20-inch width.
· A fine woven worsted made on the tricot weave which presents fine break lines in the filling direction. This chainbreak effect fabric is dyed all popular shades, has a high, compact texture, and is a good material to use in tailoring. Gives excellent wear in the better type of tailored garments for women. See warp knitting.

Teflon:-
Registered trademark of DuPont for its tetrafluoroethylene polymer fiber, announced in 1953. Type TFE is the polytetrafluoroethylene and it is not thermoplastic. Type FEP is fluorinated ethylene and is thermoplastic. The fiber is of smooth, circular surface and the cross-section is round. Teflon is ecru, brown or tan in color cast but bleaches to white in strong oxidizing mineral acids. It does not absorb moisture and is the most non-wettable fiber known to man. It possesses excellent thermal stability is very tough and strong, and also chemical resistant. It remains inert to all chemicals except to molten alkali metals, hot fluorine gas or chlorine trifluoride under pressure. It is used in filters, felts, gaskets, diaphragm fabrics, electrical tape, pump-packing, et al.

Terry Cloth: -
This cloth has uncut loops on both sides of the fabric. Woven on a dobby loom with Terry arrangement, various sizes of yarns are used in the construction. Terry is also made on a Jacquard loom to form interesting motifs. It may be yarn-dyed in different colors to form attractive patterns. It is bleached, piece-dyed, and even printed for beachwear and bathrobes, etc. Also called Turkish toweling. Today knitted Terry is very popular in fashion.

Terry Toweling: –
These are classified according to weave or design:
1. Cam-Woven, Plain Terry?Plain border.
2. Dobby-Woven?Simple pattern in the border, or all over. Border design include rope and corduroy borders.
3. Jacquard-Woven?Those which have rather elaborate allover motifs, or names woven into the goods.
4. Mitcheline?This border type has a heavy, distinct, raised or embossed border effect, formed by a stout colored filling yarn; the roving is used sometimes instead of a yarn to obtain the effect. Most of this fabric is made on Jacquard looms.
5. Texture-Designed?This is made on either a dobby or a jacquard loom. It has an allover, raised, and recessed motif. The athletic-rib towel, which has raised terry stripes with alternating plain ground stripes, is in this classification; also known as corduroy toweling. These are classified according to type:
All-White Plain?This has a plain border, white or colors. It also implies fancy-woven, colored border toweling.
Bath Mat?This is a heavy type of Terry made for bath mats. Coarse ply are used to provide bulkiness, strength, and the weight necessary to give the fabric body and substance.
Jacquard Reversible Allover?this features colored pile on side with white pile effect on the other side. The borders are plain or fancy. The interchanging white and colored loops form a contrasting motif on each side of the material.
Pastel-Color Plain?IT is made with dyed filling yarns, white pile yarns.

Oxford:–
Soft, somewhat porous, and rather stout cotton shirting given a silk-like luster finish. Made on small repeat basket weaves, the fabric soils easily because of the soft, bulky filling used in the goods. The cloth comes in all white or may have stripes with small geometric designs between these stripes. Now is made from spun rayon, acetate, and other manmade fibers. Oxford also means a woolen or worsted fabric which has a grayish cast made from a combination of black and white yarns or by use of dyed gray yarn.